In love with: Chanel’s Paris-Edinburgh Métiers d’Art Show makeup
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It goes without saying that the makeup look that Peter
Philips, Creative Director of Chanel Makeup designed for the label’s recent Paris-Edinburgh
Métiers d’Art Show would be beyond amazing, but I always love to hear more
about his technique, product choices and general inspiration.
“A soft, fresh look with a subtle edge,” is what he named as
the goal for the uniquely beautiful look, with a focus that “lies on both the skin
and eyes. I wanted the fresh, crisp glow of a pure skin and an eye that stands
out without overtaking the look.”
Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld asked for a look that would
complement the hair, “avoiding it to become too ‘costume’”, and the end result was both fresh faced and unashamedly on
trend.
For the base Philips used Vitalumière Éclat or Mat Lumière,
depending on the models’ own skin. Preparation was also key, as when applying
makeup in rough weather conditions, it’s important to use a good moisturiser –
in this case Hydra Beauty. He added that he needed to use a foundation that
would “hold and cover enough to stand in this cold, windy outdoor environment”,
and he added just the right amount of Joues Contraste "Rose Initial"
to create a luminous peach/pink blush that looks like the girls were just back
from an hour or two walking on the moors.
On the eyes he used Les 4 Ombres "Raffinement" to
do some soft shading and highlighting, “and I used no mascara, to keep a
fragility in the look”. He added a touch of edginess by applying a black line
under the eye and on the outer upper corners to create a look that he says is “between
a dancer’s makeup and a punk”. By combining a beige Crayon Khôl
"Clair" and the "Noir Intense" Stylo Yeux Waterproof he
also kept the fragility delicately in place.
On the nails he used a dark blue/violet with a touch of
sparkle called "Taboo" that I seriously want right now, and to finish
the look put a sheer layer of Lèvres Scintillantes "Plaisir" on the
lips.
Beautiful huh? And surprisingly wearable come the cooler
months.
Lagerfeld, not only a man with an eye for sartorialism, he is also a genius in the art of theatre. The theme of his shows brings a thoughtful, altogether more intellectual level of creativity than other couture houses. Not just a showcase for the latest designs. They are ideas partly based on fable, partly historic and takes one into a world of make-believe for adults, theatre, bejewelled pantomime. Never disturbing - like some other designers, always with the aim of the most beautiful, the most exquisite. Now mimicked by others but no-one replicates the individual excellence of Lagerfeld.
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